TOO MANY CITIES!
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4-16-2009 - 6:09pm - San Francisco,=20 California
I'm at the SF airport again. I've another hour of = my layover=20 on my way home. It feels weird, this is the last time I have to = wait for a=20 vehicle to take me somewhere(Unless Laila is really late picking = me up.)=20
I realize now that there's a lot I'll have to do = in the next=20 few days to get everything back in order.
I'm coming home pretty broke. I'll figure out the = details=20 tomorrow, but I think I'll be ok. It's way cheaper living at home = than it=20 is making my way through 8 countries.
There are quite a few people I want to see all at = once. I=20 don't know when I'll get to see all of them.
Movie night is tomorrow. That should help me = regain some of=20 my bearings. Laila has the pick, so it should be pretty violent at = least.=20
This might be a little sad, but this is the = longest I've=20 been away from home. I've been off at work for weeks at a time, = but I've=20 never done a stretch like this.
I'm not sure it's been the way I thought. I didn't = have a=20 lot of preconceptions. After a while, a lot of cities start to = look the=20 same. The world is really corporate. There're a lot of the same = shops.=20 There are a lot of pictures I've taken that, shown to me now, I = might not=20 be able to tell you where it is.
Really unforgettable places: Venice, Florence, = Prague,=20 Edinburgh, Nice.
Those are my top 5. In no particular order. = Barcelona almost=20 made the list.
I had great times in every city, but those are the = ones that=20 were the most charming to me. Of all the places I've seen, these = are the=20 ones I would most like to share with other people. These are the = places I=20 wanted to bottle up to take home with me.
4-13-2009 - 10:11pm - Frankfurt,=20 Germany
I took my last train on the trip today. I'm at my = final stop=20 on the grand tour.
Frankfurt is nice. Some of the architecture here = is really=20 interesting. Very contemporary. It seems like a town that has it's = head on=20 it's shoulders. I think I'll get out and see it tomorrow.
Cologne was really cool. It was just like = Christian Ettinger=20 described it in the interview. You get off the train in front of = this=20 massive cathedral. And there are breweries on almost every block. =
Thankfully, the cathedral was open to the public = for Easter=20 Sunday. They even let people take pictures. I forgot I was wearing = the hat=20 and was asked by a very polite robed man to remove it.
I must have had a dozen different beers in the = last couple=20 days. So good to finally have a bit of that German perspective = everyone=20 always talks about. I still need to see Belgium, but I think this = is=20 enough for me to say that the Pacific NW has some of the best beer = in the=20 world. It's pretty good here, but I'd pay 10 euros for anything = from=20 Double Mountain right now.
I had an amazing breakfast this morning. They have = this=20 thing here where they have this buttery, creamy potato dish with = scattered=20 slices of zucchini, and then they put two eggs over easy on top of = it. Oh,=20 my god. I want to learn how to make that as soon as I get home. = Also, I=20 want to learn how to make the perfect tomato soup. Those are the = two=20 things that are my cooking goals this spring, and you can all = consider=20 yourselves my guinea pigs. I'll try to make each of them for a = movie=20 night.
It's hard to believe this country was ever the = symbol of=20 racism and intolerance. It's so diverse now.
One thing that should probably go: sleeveless = shirts.=20 They're everywhere.
Germans haven't really captured the beauty of a = dark beer.=20 There's so much you can do with a very rich ale. They've obsessed = with=20 finesse. Sometimes a guy just wants a really tasty beer.
The water here is pretty bad, too. I think my = mistake was=20 expecting anything different. Everywhere I go is a major city. Big = cities=20 have bad water. Even the water in Portland can get pretty bad = sometimes.=20 It's too bad I couldn't take a five gallon jug of the Scottish = stuff with=20 me everywhere I've gone. That would have been awesome. I would = have even=20 dragged it around with a hand truck through Madrid.
I wish I had two more days left on my railpass. = Seeing=20 Amsterdam would really be worth the trip. Even for a day.
It's hard to believe I can actually relax here. = All I have=20 to do now is get on a plane on Thursday. I can really kick back = and relax=20 here in Frankfurt.
Can someone tell me why all the mannequins over = here have=20 nipples on them? I mean, come on, some of them are just obscene! =
4-12-2009 - 9:58am - On a train in=20 Germany
The train just passed by the Volkswagen = headquarters. They=20 call it the 'Autostadt'. I can see why. That's probably the = longest=20 building I've seen in my life. And I've been to the Mall of = America. I'm=20 on a train going 200km and hour and it still took us over 30 = seconds to=20 travel the length of it.
I don't think I'd recommend people seeing Europe = the way I=20 have. I knew going into this I wouldn't be spending enough time at = any of=20 these places. That's not the thing that bothers me. I'm really = tired. I=20 counted up all the places I'm going on this trip; it's almost 20 = cities in=20 28 days.
That's crazy.
I really got a good taste of - I think - over half = of them.=20 I've met some really cool people. The first half of the trip, I = felt like=20 I needed to pack as much into each day as possible while in each = city. By=20 the time I got to the Mediterranean, I was dead tired. I've taken = a day=20 here and there to sort of recharge my batteries.
Sadly, that's what happened in Berlin yesterday. = What I did=20 see was great. I'll be back someday, Berlin!
Another observation: Europe is not for = vegetarians. Lots of=20 people told me that before I came out here, but I don't think I = put enough=20 stock in those warnings. The least I could have done was take a = box of=20 Clif bars with me.
The hostel this morning had a 4 euro buffet. Well = worth it.=20 They had cereal and hard boiled eggs. Yay protein!
The German countryside is a lot prettier than I = would have=20 thought. Beautiful rivers. Lush, green fields. Some of the older = buildings=20 that are still standing are actually quite charming. The Germans = are much=20 bigger fans of geometric shapes in architecture than the rest of = Europe.=20 Most things are in triangles and squares.
German trains are pretty great. Lots of seats with = power=20 outlets. I've done a lot of writing since I got here. I even did a = lot of=20 plotting for 'Roulette City'. I haven't revisited that story in a = while.=20 It's looking bigger every time I think about it. I came up with a = half=20 dozen major plot twists this morning. Perhaps Matt will be up for = an epic=20 sci-fi/fantasy soon...
Also, I've decided to base Dieter from = 'Commentary' on the=20 attendant for the first class section of this train. He talks = really fast=20 in short bursts, then finishes sentences slowly and in a much = higher=20 pitch. It's hilarious. It's too bad he's only a voice in the play, = because=20 he does this funny thing after he finishes speaking. He sort of = smiles off=20 and on - as if he's flexing his face.
Someone in Berlin yesterday told me that most pubs = stay open=20 on Easter. Sweet.
Kolsh country, here I come.
4-11-2009 - 8:07pm - Berlin, = Germany
So, I think I'm in a lesbian bar.
So, I've got that going for me.
It's amazing how universal the gay signals are. No = matter=20 where I go, I can tell. The only thing that threw me off was how = many=20 people in France and Spain dressed like they had just been on an = episode=20 of queer eye. Straight guys, just wearing leather pants and having = their=20 dyed hair form a point on their head. I wish I had pictures.
I'm in Berlin. The hostel I'm crashing at tonight = is in the=20 former East Berlin. I haven't seen a lot of landmarks yet; this = place is=20 not very walkable. This part of town reminds me of Portland. Lots = of=20 people commuting on bike. I'm really going to regret not spending = enough=20 time here. It seems a lot like my kind of town. Maybe I'll come = back with=20 some more people some day.
Something I ate must not have agreed with me = because I just=20 felt like crap the moment I got here. I checked in at the hostel = and took=20 a nap. Much better now. Maybe I was tired because I haven't had = coffee in=20 4 days. That has to be a new record.
I was awoken by some great jazz music coming from = a little=20 pub across the street, so I packed up ol' lappy and went over. =
Good beer.
Horrible water.
The water at every place since Scotland has just = been=20 shittier and shittier. Even the bottled stuff tastes like crap, so = I've=20 given up and started buying the carbonated water. It's the same = price for=20 some reason, but the bubbles sort of hide the taste at least. = Scotland had=20 the best tasting water I've ever had. I almost would rather have = had water=20 than beer.
They're playing a really funny jazz song right = now. The=20 singer has a really high pitched voice. It's made stranger by the = fact=20 half of the lyrics are in german and the other half are in = english.
I'm a little bit afraid I'll only be in this town = long=20 enough to not want to leave. But I really want to see Cologne. The = last=20 day of my railpass is the 13th. I have to get to Frankfurt by then = or I'm=20 a little screwed.
Now they're playing Edith Piaf. I like this place. =
I realized yesterday that I'll be in Cologne on = Easter. I=20 hope I can find something open, otherwise it won't matter what I = want to=20 do, because I won't be able to do anything.
Some people noticed the hat. I picked it up in = Vienna. I=20 bought it for two reasons: it fit my head and it was made in = Italy. It=20 struck me that I didn't buy anything while I was in Italy; the = irony of=20 waiting until I was in Austria could not be avoided.
While napping, I dreamt I was working a shift at = Journeys.=20 It was such a calming experience. No number of tables can compare = with the=20 stress of not knowing where you're going to sleep five days in a = row. At=20 least there, I know where my bed is. It's totally right down the = street!=20
At hostels, people keep talking up Budapest. They = all seem=20 to think it's one of the best places to go. I'll keep that in mind = the=20 next time I decide to take a jaunt around.
I wish everyone a happy Easter back at home. I = know my=20 family will be sitting around a table with a bunch of meat and = vegetables=20 (in somewhat less even quantities than normal). There's a chance = that I=20 may not be able to find a store open tomorrow, so I went into a = grocer and=20 picked up some apples and carrots.
I love apples and carrots.
Ok, now I'm pretty sure they're playing the 'Cry = Baby'=20 soundtrack.
The grand tour only has a few days left. I'll talk = a bit=20 more about that tomorrow.
4-10-2009 - 10:05pm - Prague, Czech=20 Republic
I walked all over Prague today. I'm tired.
I spent the last part of my night fighting with my = camera. I=20 was right about the memory card being too full. I just had to go = in and=20 delete all the stuff I've already backed up. Then I had to try = about three=20 times to move the last 5 days worth of pictures onto my laptop. It = was=20 about 2500 pictures.
Prague has a very simple underground system. I = didn't use it=20 much, since it was a lot more fun to just run into stuff along the = way.=20
They have the creepiest mannequins here.
I'll show some pictures later. I haven't the = energy to sort=20 through them all tonight.
I leave for Berlin in the morning.
4-9-2009 - 4:04pm - Vienna, = Austria
Running out of juice, so I'll keep this short. =
I ditched Vienna for Prague. It was either Vienna = or Berlin,=20 and I chose the later.
I'll be in Prague for two nights. From there I go = to Berlin=20 for one, then Cologne for one night, and finally Frankfurt.
Everything is a lot cleaner in Austria. I didn't = run into a=20 single pile of dog poop. Yay!
I walked across Vienna looking for the other train = station=20 and ended up missing the first one out. Rather than look around = Vienna for=20 the next three hours, for some reason I sat in a pub and ended up = getting=20 more than a little tipsy. That should help me sleep on this little = on this=20 ride over to the Czech Republic.
Austria's pretty cool. Too bad I'll end up = spending a total=20 of 10 hours there.
I'll try to stay at a place called 'Plus Prague' = tonight.=20 Wish me luck.
4-9-2009 - 10:20am - Somewhere in=20 Austria
My laptop has been dead for two days. This is the = first=20 moment where I've been able to plug it in. I'm on a train now to = Vienna. I=20 took an overnight train from Venice to Vienna, but earlier this = morning,=20 there was an accident not too far up the tracks. We had to reverse = and go=20 back to the last station. Then we waited for an hour until buses = slowly=20 trickled in to take us to another station where we could finally = get to=20 Vienna.
I was supposed to be there two hours ago.
Venice was fun. It was every bit as picturesque as = you'd=20 think. I spent about four hours just sitting on the side of the = canals,=20 just watching the boats and gondolas go by. Then, when night fell, = I got=20 to see some beautiful reflections of the city lights on the = canals. I can=20 see why so many people have painted it.
Florence was one of the best places I've been so = far. Very=20 walkable. A couple days ago, I walked to all four corners of the = city and=20 back. There's a fantastic hillside called the Piazza de = Michelangelo. They=20 have a copy of the David and a fantastic view.
Florence has one microbrewery. They make three = beers and all=20 of them are not good. The guy who brews is pretty nice, though. = Every beer=20 tasted like I was drinking liquid malt. It had that chewy = sweetness that=20 you get when you munch on a hand full of grain. Not hop = characteristic at=20 all. I asked him what hops he uses and he brought me a cup of = skunky=20 pellets. It's all unfiltered.
I'll figure out if I'll stay the night in Vienna = when I get=20 there. If I spend the night there, I'll have to forgo Berlin. I = may just=20 catch a late train to Prague and stay there for a couple days. I = don't=20 want to have to take another night train. The beds are about a = foot too=20 short for me. I felt like I was laying in the fetal position all = night.=20 Still, much more comfortable than the hostel I stayed at in = Valencia.
I'll see if there's a cheap bed and breakfast I = can stay at=20 in Cologne. It sounds a lot better than staying at all hostels for = the=20 last week I'm here.
I look forward to having some good beer later. But = first I=20 need to figure out how to get my back-up credit card working. They = have an=20 800 number that I don't know how to use from here. I'll be needing = it to=20 get through Germany. My budget has taken a huge punch to the groin = lately.=20 They make you pay a reservation fee in Spain, France, and Italy to = even=20 have a seat on a train. One trip in France cost me 27e, another in = Italy=20 cost me 23e. That and the price of the hostel and I have about 10e = left of=20 my daily budget for food. Bottles of water cost 3e! It's bread and = veggies=20 from fruit stands for me from here on out.
I want to have something left to have some of the = best beer=20 in the world.
4-6-2009 - 7:10pm - Florence, = Italy
I'm in Firenze. It's pretty cool so far.
The earthquake was about 200 miles SE of here. I'm = fine.=20
Will post more later.
4-6-2009 - 3:20pm - Milan, = Italy
I'm in a first class train car in Milan train = station,=20 sitting in the only seat I could find that has an outlet nearby. = I'm=20 hoping no one actually has this seat reserved. It would suck to = not have=20 my laptop for yet another train ride.
On my way to Florence. This is the fastest train = that can=20 get me there.
I'm debating stopping in Vienna. It might be = easier and=20 cheaper to just go straight to Prague. I hear everything is much = more=20 affordable there. Vienna sounded like fun, and another country to = add to=20 the list, but It is a ways off the beaten path. There are no fast = trains=20 there from Venice, so the trip would take over 7 hours.
I met some really cool people in Nice. There was a = kid from=20 New York, named Kyle that was staying at the same hostel as me on = the=20 first night. We walked around Nice trying to find another place to = stay=20 since the one from the night before was booked that day in = advance. He=20 already had a booking at another place outside of town, so we = parted ways=20 after I found a place. We may just see each other again someday - = one of=20 his friends was just drafted to the Trailblazers. I regret not = askin him=20 who. Not much interest in sports, but it would have been nice to = know in=20 the long run.
While doing laundry at the next hostel, I met a = two women=20 also waiting for the one dryer that wasn't broke. Maryanne was = from=20 Australia and Yvonne was from Toronto. We talked for a couple = hours while=20 we waited for the stupid machine and then went for some food. It = was great=20 actually going to a place with someone who spoke french. Yvonne = could ask=20 if things were vegetarian for me! She says she's a pescatarian, = though I=20 don't think she's that either; she had duck at the = restaurant.)
Yay, cheap wine! I've had some much Bordeaux and=20 Cote-u-Rhone this last week, it's amazing. It's funny I didn't = have any=20 when I was actually in Bordeaux.
This train is taking forever to leave the station. =
It's funny how easy it is to be surrounded by a = different=20 language every couple days. I was in a train in Italy earlier, in = a room=20 with two girls from Quebec, two girls from Mexico, and an old = italian=20 woman who didn't seem to understand that none of us spoke italian. = I=20 didn't understand much of anything, because the two from Quebec = spoke=20 spanish, so they talked to whole 3 hours in spanish.
Maybe I won't be so left out when I get to = Germany. I might=20 not be able to carry a conversation, but understanding it = shouldn't be so=20 hard.
Good. It left the station. Only about 15 minutes = later than=20 it should have. I hope I have the right train.
The announcement said it's going to Naples. Good = thing=20 Firenze is between Milano and Napoli.
I just hope they know to stop there.
4-4-2009 - 10:30pm - Nice, France =
Nice is beautiful. I almost didn't make it, but I = did.
I'd have pictures on here, but my camera is being = stupid. It=20 may be a problem with the new memory card. My computer doesn't = know how to=20 deal with 8gb being thrown at it. I'll switch to the smaller = memory sticks=20 from here on out.
Had a great time in Barcelona. Taking a few hours = to just=20 sit on the beach did me a whole load of good. The Picasso museum = was=20 enlightening.
I'll be in Nice again tomorrow. Not sure when I'll = leave the=20 day after. I may try to catch an overnight train to Florence = tomorrow=20 night and just sleep on the train. That should be nice, and save a = little=20 money. It would be great to wake up in another city in another = country.=20
Nice has a rock beach. I've never seen anything = like it=20 before. I'll put pictures of it on as soon as I can get them. The = city=20 here really lights up at night. Unlike other towns, this one in = particular=20 is purposefully colorful. The buildings are all pastel during the = day, but=20 at night, once the lights hit them, they glow neon in a way that's = reminiscent of Vegas. It's everywhere, but not an assault on your = senses=20 the way Vegas is.
I had some great wine tonight. Last week, I was in = Bordeaux,=20 but didn't have any of their wine until tonight. Very dry. One I = had=20 tasted very much of grape seeds more than grapes and another had a = prune=20 quality that I found enjoyable. But then, I like prunes.
I'll wake up tomorrow and figure out what I'm = going to do. I=20 feel like I've already seen France on this trip, so I'm excited to = get to=20 Italy. However, I've wanted to see Nice since I saw the movie = 'Ronin'=20 years ago. Damn, that was a good movie. Every time I watch it I = spend the=20 whole time looking at the scenery. I'll take my time here.
There haven't been a lot of updates because my = laptop=20 battery sucks and there hasn't been electricity on a train since I = first=20 left France. I'm picking hostels that specifically offer wifi. = It's hard=20 to find sometimes.
4-2-2009 - 11:33pm - Barcelona, = Spain
Today was much easier. Valencia was beautiful this = morning.=20 Lots of pictures taken. The city has a few marvelous squares. I = had to sit=20 down for an hour with a cup of coffee in one of them to properly = take it=20 in.
Then I took a decent sized train ride to = Barcelona. Also=20 great, but in a different way. Valencia is like a coastal version = of=20 Madrid; Barcelona is something else entirely.
Taking the train into and out of Valencia was = amazing. There=20 are miles and miles of orange trees. I can't even describe how = much. I=20 spent an hour staring out the window until I figured that's where = all of=20 the world's oranges must come from. Then I looked out the window = on the=20 other side and it was the same thing. I was riding through a = rainforest of=20 oranges. Very different from the empty wine country we were riding = through=20 before (The vines were all trimmed back after the harvest).
I'm staying at a wonderful hostel here. I had a = great=20 conversation with a couple Australian girls earlier who are going = about=20 Europe as well. They wanted to go bar hopping with me, but I don't = think=20 I'm up for it for several reasons. A few moments ago, I had a = really=20 awkward conversation with four teenagers from China who are = sharing a=20 table with me. There haven't been a lot of Americans so far.
I hadn't put any pictures on since Paris. That is = corrected.=20
I realize now that I'm a big fan of pictures where = an empty=20 sky makes a shape with the tops of buildings. Let me know if = that's=20 getting tired to you...
P. S. I finally got my pigeon pictures! There is a = scene in=20 the last issue of YOTD that I haven't finished because I've needed = a bunch=20 of pictures of pigeons. I've had trouble because I needed pictures = of them=20 with nothing behind it, because no matter how much I edit, the = background=20 always interferes with the flapping wings. Now I can finally = finish the=20 4th issue! Thank you Valencia!
4-1-2009 - 11:25pm - Valencia, Spain =
Madrid was fun. Like most of this trip, I didn't = spend as=20 much time there as I would have liked.
The design of the city was kind of schizophrenic. = They had=20 classical statues right next to modern interpretive are. Six = hundred year=20 old building right next to brand new ones. Sometimes they just cut = buildings in half so they can use the space differently, leaving = these=20 strange partial brick walls hanging off the sides of buildings. =
I'm getting the hang of the language barrier = thing. If you=20 start the conversation with Lo siento (I'm sorry), they're much = nicer to=20 you. It's been a breeze since I figured that one out. I still have = to play=20 charades several times a day. It was easiest when I went into a = pharmacy=20 to ask for a razor; that motion is pretty universal.
Yes, I shaved. I was tired of everyone treating me = like a=20 vagabond. I go into places and no one wants to serve me.
By the way, American service is awesome. If you = don't think=20 so, come to Europe. Sometimes people won't even look at you. Also, = places=20 have the strangest hours. If you want something from a grocery = store at=20 7pm- guess what? You're fucked. Most places that aren't bars close = at 5 or=20 6. Good luck finding a bar that will serve food sometimes. Yes, = there are=20 places to eat, but some of the prices are ridiculous. 20E for an = entree is=20 not reasonable. I never pay $26 for a meal at home. Well... not = unless=20 there's a bunch of beer involved. I'm just complaining now. It's = been=20 easier than I'm making it out to be. If that's my biggest gripe, = then I'm=20 getting out of this easy.
I decided to spend two nights in Nice. I want to = really=20 experience the town, and not try to cram it all into 10 waking = hours like=20 I've done with some of these places. I'm also spending two nights = in=20 Barcelona. I'll have to cram Italy into a small time frame. I = haven't=20 planned it yet, but there's an opportunity to spend two nights in = either=20 Florence or Venice. I'll spend at least one night in each place = anyway,=20 but I have a little room before moving on to Prague. I'll spend a = fair=20 amount of time in Germany. The language should be easier to grasp. = I think=20 I'll spend a day in Berlin and Then go to Cologne for a couple = days before=20 ending the trip in Frankfurt.
Beer will be drank.
3-31-2009 - 12:41am - Madrid, = Spain
I'm in Madrid. It took a long time. The train = system here=20 sucks.
I arrived about six hours later than I would have = liked to.=20 Now I have to cram in as much as possible before going to the = coast=20 tomorrow. There are three museums that I would love to see, but I = may have=20 to settle for one. Damn.
Absolutely everyone here smokes! My lungs are = crying.
I'll have photos probably tomorrow.
3-31-2009 - 4:28pm - A train in Spain = headed for=20 Madrid
I've officially had my first major language = barrier moment.=20
I was the only person in the whole of the Irun, = Spain train=20 station that spoke english. It was like playing a game of = pictionary. I=20 just made sure everyone knew I was going to Madrid.
It's funny that I was on a train in SW France = headed to=20 Spain when suddenly I'm in Spain and it's a different world. = Imagine=20 taking a bus to Vancouver, and when you get off suddenly no one is = speaking the same language.
Boy, I thought a lot of people smoked in France. = Everyone=20 smokes here.
There's a huge difference in population density. = Suddenly=20 all of the buildings got taller.
One bonus: there's a discernable effort to have = more signage=20 in other languages. It might be easier to find my way around here = than in=20 France.
I've notice lots of people with their jeans tucked = into=20 their boots. Maybe it's a style thing, or maybe I'm seeing things. =
Trains stop a lot longer at the stations. After = the railway=20 bombings in Madrid years ago, they've really beefed up security. = It was=20 the first time I've had to put my bag in an x-ray machine to get = on a=20 train.
They didn't stamp my passport. weird.
3-30-2009 - 1:46pm - La Rochelle, = France=20
I hopped the first train out of Paris going my = direction.=20 This is all the way on the Atlantic coast. Nice town. Small, but=20 sophisticated. I found WIFI here. That's more than I can say for = the whole=20 of Paris.
I have a connection to Bordeaux in about two = hours. I'll=20 take this internet time to make some plans for the next couple = days. I=20 think I'm going to treat myself to a B+B tonight. I got out of = Paris for=20 less than 120 euros. That's something.
3-30-2009 - 9:40am - Paris, France - Gare=20 Montparnasse
Paris won't let me escape.
I'm at the train station, and they've had a = massive=20 electrical problem. They don't know what trains are going to what = gate.=20 It's a huge clusterfuck. The french news stations are all here. = There are=20 about 500 people staring at a board, waiting for it to wake up and = tell=20 them it's ok to leave. I just missed a train to Bordeaux. It was = leaving=20 the station as I walked up to it. I might not have missed it, if = not for=20 the fact that I don't understand the announcements playing through = the=20 stations.
I had to listen to all of the french announcements = through=20 hundreds of miles of the UK, the least they could do is just say = the=20 number of the train and the gate in english. Good god, people. Why = do they=20 have to be so french about everything?
3-29-2009 - 8:44pm - Paris, = France
Night number two in France.
I'm tired. I walked from one end of the city to = the other=20 and back again today. I made the mistake of climbing the stairs to = the=20 center of the Eiffel Tower. That was a big mistake. It's huge. = Then I went=20 to the Louvre. Do you know how many stairs are in that place? = Lots. Lots=20 and lots. A buttload, some might say. My feet are killing me.
I'm heading for a train station first thing in the = morning.=20 My Eurail pass is officially valid tomorrow.
I've got to get out of here. Paris is built around = either=20 living here or having a lot of money when you show up. I hope = every other=20 place after this comes up under budget. Otherwise I have to pull = out the=20 credit to make it through to Germany.
3-28-2009 - 11:04pm - Paris, = France
I'm lying in my bed at the Hotel Montial. If you = never hear=20 from me again, that is probably the reason why. I think this is = the place=20 where Lime disease originates.
I arrive in Paris just after 8. The bus driver = from the=20 Ryanair airport (about an hour north of the city) dropped us off = somewhere=20 in town that I had no idea where I was. I'm grateful I was smart = enough to=20 ask for a map from the information desk at the airport. Not that = it was=20 much good for the first hour. The one semblance of direction I = could find=20 was the Eiffel Tower. It has this giant rotating light on it that = is=20 particularly helpful on a cloudy night like tonight. That was = great.
Until the light went out.
It was Earth Hour! All the worlds great monuments = went dark=20 for an hour to raise awareness about energy conservation. That = sounds like=20 a noble cause. But not when I have no idea where I am. Lame.
I eventually found what looked like a main road = and started=20 walking down it. After a couple minutes, I could see the Arc de = Triumphe=20 in the distance.
From there, I could see the Tower even in the = dark,=20 silhouetted in the city lights behind it.
I spent the next two hours looking for a place to = stay. Most=20 of the hostels were fully booked. The ones that had vacancy I = could hardly=20 understand on the phone. All I wanted was a damn address. This=20 receptionist had such poor english, the only thing I could = understand=20 about the address was the first part: the number 1. I decided to = get in a=20 taxi and have him give the directions to the driver. After I get = in the=20 cab, I call the place up... I'm out of minutes on my prepaid = t-moblie=20 phone. I apologize to the driver of the cab I just waved down off = a busy=20 street so I can try to buy more minutes outside a row of closed = shops.=20
My debit card isn't accepted.
I get a hold of customer service. They can't take = my=20 American debit card. In fact, they can't take any non-EU cards = over the=20 phone. Bastards. They could have told me in London when I bought = the=20 stupid thing. Now it gets to be a watch until I can find a = t-mobile store=20 in the morning.
I walk around Paris looking for a hotel. Most of = them, for=20 just a single room, are 190 euros per night. That's $250 dollars = American!=20 No way. No frackin' way. That's about 15% of my remaining budget = for=20 cryin' out loud.
I eventually found this. Hotel Montial. You get = what you pay=20 for.
There were a couple options at reception. 38 euros = for a=20 single bed with a toilet. 42 euros for a single bed with a shower. =
The second option doesn't have a toilet.
I pick the second option. I go up to my room and = pee in the=20 sink.
I leave the water running on hot for a little = while so I=20 don't have to worry about the sink smelling like pee. After a = minute, I=20 hear some bubbling in the shower. Some of the water from the sink = drain=20 has started coming up out of the shower drain.
Now the room smells like pee.
I shouldn't be surprised; when the man at = reception gave me=20 the key, he also gave me the remote to the TV. That's not = something that's=20 ever happened to me before, but then, I've never stayed at a hotel = in=20 Paris. The sad part is: I've already paid for two nights.
Wish me luck tomorrow.
3-27-2009 - 2:44pm - Dublin, Ireland - The = Old=20 Jameson Distillery
I made it to Dublin. It was 6:30 in the morning, = and more=20 than a little scary when I first got here. All the shops and = businesses=20 close their fronts with giant iron garage door things at night. It = was a=20 ghost town. I really felt like I was walking around in an Irish = version of=20 28 Days Later. I found a little cafe that was open and hid out = until the=20 coast was clear outside. Now that I've had a bunch of time to walk = around,=20 I really enjoy this place.
The Book of Kells was very intriguing. Simply from = a design=20 standpoint, it's really staggering.
The National Gallery of Ireland was great. The = best part is=20 that it's free. Lots of nice paintings. They have a Caravagio and = a Van=20 Gogh. I'd seen the Caravagio in some of my design classes. It was = even=20 better up close. I even waited around for a tour to walk by to = hear what=20 they'd say about it.
Now I'm at the Jameson Distillery waiting for a = tour. It was=20 expensive, but I'd regret it if I didn't do it. BONUS, it includes = a drink=20 at the bar. That's value for your money!
I think I'll be done for the day after this. I am = really=20 tired. I got about three hours sleep on the ferry, and my hostel = here=20 wasn't able to check me in until after 2. I might head back to the = hostel=20 for a nap. I've run into a bunch of Americans here. A couple = groups from=20 Texas. A group from St Louis. My neighbors are a family from = Gresham! How=20 weird is that? They say they'll come by Journeys sometime.
I think tomorrow I'll just wander around a park = for a bit=20 before it's time to catch my plane. No Guinness tour for me! Those = carnivorous bastards!
I should have some pictures from Wales and Dublin = sometime=20 tonight.
3-26-2009 - 7:04pm - Holyhead, Wales,=20 UK
I'm trapped in a tiny little town. Online listed a = ferry=20 leaving from Holyhead to Dublin at just after 5pm. I thought I'd = have=20 plenty of time after a train arrived at Holyhead at 3:15. Turns = out, the=20 ferry at 5 is for cars only! I have to wait for the passenger = ferry=20 leaving at 2:40am. Yup, that's the morning. So I'm sitting in a = little pub=20 called The King's Arms, waiting for either the bar to close or the = ferry=20 to show up.
As serendipity would have it, the bar closes at 9. =
I'll have to find another place to hang my hat for = about 5=20 hours after that. I can't imagine they don't have a pub in this = town open=20 'til at least midnite.
It's really cold and windy here. It hasn't stopped = raining=20 since I got off the train.
I was worried about the cost of room and board for = two=20 nights in Dublin. Guess I'll only have to worry about one night. =
Who knew Welsh was such a common language. All the = road and=20 street signs are in two languages. Welsh wouldn't seem like such a = strange=20 language to me if it actually had vowels. It's a lot like looking = at=20 Russian road signs; words here have 9 consonants in a row.
3-25-2009 - 7:57pm - Edinburgh, = UK
The people in the pictures from last night are: = Sophie, Al,=20 me, Lou, and David on the table. Very fun people! I hope chance = puts us=20 together again.
As soon as I took the time to relax, I really = started to=20 enjoy myself. I started out this morning walking to Holyrood park, = which=20 isn't far from the place I'm staying at. I asked a nice lady who = was=20 walking her dog which way I could go to find the castle, and she = told me=20 about a path along the cliffs above the park to the start of the = Royal=20 Mile, a historic stretch of road starting at the Holyrood Palace = (where=20 the Queen stays when she's in Scotland), leading up the hill to = Edinburgh=20 Castle. The cliffs were amazing. There were quite a few stops = along the=20 Royal Mile: there were a couple museums I couldn't resist, there = was a=20 snooty pub I dropped into for a pint and a plate of chips, and a = place=20 called 'The Scotch Experience'. All this before I even got to the = castle.=20
This was easily one of the most beautiful days of = my life. I=20 started rather late, but still had time to take in some of the = best of=20 what Scotland has to offer.
The Scotch place was a real treat. There are walls = of single=20 malt scotch all over. The tasting room downstairs has a ten page = menu,=20 separated by region. I started with a Balvenie 17 year. Then I got = to=20 talking to the bartender and from what I told her I've like before = she=20 recommended a Glenmorangie Quinta Reuben. It was very nice and = smelled=20 just subtly of pineapple. All of them were very cheap. The last = one I=20 talked about was just over five bucks for a shot.
I've had to change my plans a little bit. The = ferry across=20 to Belfast is expensive and horribly inconvenient. Since I still = have a=20 couple days on my Britrail Pass, I'll head down to Liverpool and = then west=20 to Holyhead. That's where I'll get a ferry over to Dublin. I'll = stay a=20 couple days there and maybe hop a train to a small town outside of = the=20 city.
The ferry from the south of Ireland isn't free = with the=20 Eurail pass I had to get. I found out it's cheaper to take a = Ryanair=20 flight from Dublin directly to Paris. It was only 50 pounds one = way and=20 only takes two and a half hours. That should shave more than a day = off my=20 travel from the islands to the continent.
Now I have to work on where I should stay in = Dublin. This=20 bed and breakfast thing can really start to grow on me.
3-24-2009 - 8:26pm - Edinburgh, = UK
I'm at a pub called 'The Crags', just off-campus = of The=20 University of Edinburgh.
I didn't expect to miss the Google Maps applet on = my phone=20 so damn much. I feel like I need a compass, a machete, and safari = truck to=20 navigate some of these places. It took me a half hour longer than = it=20 should have to find the B+B I'm staying at.
This place is COLD. The wind sometimes hits you = like a punch=20 in the face. I look forward to the Mediterranean.
I'm finally at a real Scottish pub! Why does the = beer have=20 to be so darn boring?
I've been so pampered in Portland. We don't = realize how=20 lucky we are to have so much great beer just a stones' throw from = our=20 doors. I finally go to one of the beer drinking capitols of the = western=20 world and there's not much new to speak of. They serve Stella = Artois with=20 no foam on it?! What is with that?
I wouldn't have such a hard time getting around if = it wasn't=20 for the poor layout on all these maps. They only have the large = streets on=20 them; so when you're walking around you think you only have a = couple=20 blocks before your turn, but you're horribly mistaken. Circles are = the=20 hardest to navigate. There were so many of them in London, with so = many=20 roads headed out of them, there's no telling what direction you're = going=20 after a while. I've stopped people on the street to ask them which = way is=20 north. And I don't have a terrible sense of direction.
I started getting a touch freaked out over the = last couple=20 days. I've been trying to pack far too much into the trip and not = treat it=20 like the overview it's supposed to be. It's really stressful. = There's so=20 much to see that I've forgotten I'm at my best and most = clear-headed when=20 I give myself a few hours to just relax. That's what I'm going to = do in=20 Edinburgh tonight and tomorrow. I won't feel like I have to do = everything.=20 I'll take two hour lunches. I'll leave my laptop at the B+B and = take only=20 my camera with me. That'll be nice to not have to worry about. =
Edinburgh is even more gothic than Newcastle. =
Everything=20
looks like it was carved out of rock. It's like the skyline is a =
giant=20
sand castle.
Oh, yeah... Last night:
I stayed at a hostel just outside Piccadilly = Circus. As soon=20 as I went in, I met two other guys that shared the room. One, from = Australia was asleep at 1 in the afternoon. The other, Richard, = was awake=20 and wondering if I was up for some lunch. We hit a pub and talked = for a=20 bit. He's an interesting character. He's from Zimbabwe. His family = used to=20 have a farm there until the revolution, when they had to flee. His = current=20 job is a Pick-Up-Coach. Like the TV show 'Pick Up Artist', his job = is to=20 teach people how to pick up women. I could see how it's easy for = him; he's=20 got this exotic British-African accent that I only wish I could = emulate.=20
After I headed back to the hostel (Richard had = some work to=20 do), I met the no longer sleeping Australian, Marc. We walked down = to=20 Leicester Square together, looking for a pub I saw listed as = having free=20 wifi because the connection at the hostel was rubbish. The place = was=20 called Yates. We sat outside for a bit after it looked like = something was=20 getting set up. The set up was for a movie premier. 'Rock the = Boat', or=20 something like that. I'd never seen it advertised in the states. = We were=20 on our second round, fighting with the pubs horrible wifi = connection, when=20 they started setting up a red carpet about 20 feet in front of us. = From=20 then, we had three more rounds and a front row seat for the red = carpet=20 entrance of a bunch of British movie stars. Sir Paul was the only = one I=20 got out of my seat for. I knew I wouldn't regret it. Bill Nighy = and=20 Phillip Seymour-Hoffman were in the movie, but not at the premier; = a=20 shame, because I would have got out of my seat for them. We stuck = around=20 to watch the fascinating ballet that is the deconstruction of a = movie=20 premier set. There are something like 50 people that have the job = of=20 taking everything down before the movie gets out. I took a bunch = of=20 pictures of it. None of them are good for anything other than = reference,=20 since my camera is horrible for taking pictures at night.
So that's the story. Just a bunch of beer and = entertainment.=20
3-24-2009 - 12:23pm - Newcastle, = UK
I'm in the heart of Newcastle right now, sitting = in a lovely=20 little pub called "The Old George". The ceiling is an inch over my = head.=20
Inexplicably, Elton John's song from Lion King is = playing on=20 the speaker behind my head.
Northumbria is weird. This is a huge city, but I'm = in the=20 center of it, and I can find a single wireless network; not just = that I=20 can get onto, but I can't see any at all.
It's amazing how quickly the Victorian = architecture=20 disappears. This town is still quite beautiful, but it's almost = nothing=20 like London. The buildings and statues remind me more of the = pictures I've=20 seen of St. Petersburg.
Now Billy Joel is playing. 'Moving Out'. That's = one of his=20 worst songs.
I've got another hour before I catch a train to = Edinburgh.=20 I'll ask the waitress what I should see here before I leave.
My battery sucks, but the trains have lots of = outlets. I=20 wanted to get a new one before I left. Now I'm glad I did. Money's = going=20 to be a little tight. I hear from everyone that it all gets a lot = cheaper=20 as soon as I get out of the UK.
Now Madonna is playing. Boy, did I pick the wrong = pub.
I'll tell you all about last night later. It's a = doozy.
3-22-2009 - 9:23pm - The North Train to = Bishops=20 Stortford
Went to a couple old villages in my Uncle Frank's = Saab=20 convertible. The Village of Thaxted was beautiful. We went into = the old=20 church there, which looked more like a cathedral, and I must have = taken a=20 hundred pictures of it.
Afterword, I hopped a train back to London. Saw = the inside=20 and outside of St Paul's Cathedral. Huge. Then I walked across the = Millennium bridge to the Tate Modern Museum. They must have had = eight=20 Picasso's. I stood a foot away from Monet's 'Water Lilies'. It's = very=20 different when you see it in it's actual size. It must be 10' = across.
Then I went down the pier a bit and found the = Young's Pub,=20 from the makers of Young's Double Chocolate Stout. It was crowded, = and I=20 ended up sharing a table with a couple locals. One, Nick, is an = American=20 expat from Chicago and the other, Gaby, is originally from = Venezuela. I=20 might meet up with them again tomorrow for a couple more rounds at = a place=20 in Chinatown they want to show me.
3-21-2009 - 8:26pm - Little Dunmow, = UK
Long day. Lot's of walking. Was all over central = London=20 today.
Say the British Museum and the National Museum. = Good god,=20 they were both huge. I was two feet from the mummy of Cleopatra! I = stood=20 in front of 12 Monet paintings without so much as a sheet of glass = between=20 us. I was right in front of Caravagio and Da Vinci originals. My = cup=20 runneth over.
3-20-2009 - 10:19pm - Little Dunmow, = UK
Lots of planes and trains over the last 24 hours. = I took the=20 London Underground into the city center and transferred to a train = that=20 took me north quite a bit to a station at Bishops Stortford. My = Aunt=20 picked me up there and we stopped off at her stables to take care = of her=20 horse (Belle something) before heading to her place in Little = Dunmow (just=20 outside Greater Dunmow). There, we picked up my Uncle Frank and = went to a=20 pub and grabbed some Indian food. The village where they live is = really=20 something; most of the buildings here are over 400 years old.
Coin money is weird. I have something like 12 = pounds in my=20 pocket right now in loose change.
My power plug adaptor works! Relief.
I can't believe I'm missing the finale to BSG. =
3-19-2009 - 6:44pm - San Francisco, = CA
Sat next to a guy on my first flight that had the = same=20 connection. Now we're hanging out at a shitty little Mexican bar = waiting=20 for the next plane.
The international wing of the SF airport is almost = like a=20 shopping mall. They pump some kind of perfume into the air. It's=20 unsettling.
All of the advertising has text with letters = inside other=20 letters. When did this trend start?
3-19-2009 - 2:55pm - Portland, OR =
At the airport. There's a Laurelwood Brewpub here. = I'll try=20 to squeeze in a couple FREE RANGE RED's before my flight. That = should help=20 me sleep.
Not nervous yet, but I can feel the anxiety = building. You=20 know that little spot in the center of your chest that starts to = feel=20 heavy? It's getting heavier by the moment.
I have a stopover in San Francisco for about 45 = minutes.=20
Listening to: Bjork (Debut)
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